puppy101

Pet care info.
Many of my clients ask me for general information on the care of their new puppy before they purchase. Good for them! This is the best
time to gain knowledge about care for your pet! As the old saying goes; an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure! How true! I
cannot include all of the information on my site that all of my clients will need. However, I can direct you to good sources that will put you on
the right road. Of course you are never totally prepared for every thing that you need to know and every one has different concerns. No
matter how willing I am to be available to help you at any time, I can not always be there for you when you need my help. There are many
good books on puppy care as well as information that can be obtained on the internet.

INTERNET SITES FOR INFORMATION:
This site is very informative! - http://www.hsus.org/pets/pet_care/
This sit is a good one for kids and parents! - http://www.loveyourdog.com/index.html

RECOMMENDED BOOKS:
The loved dog by Tamar Geller - can be ordered from Barnes and Nobel for about $15 - $20.

House breaking
Generally effective potty training can begin in earnest at 8 wks. of age. You should not begin to expect your puppy to hold his urine for an 8
hr. stretch until he is 8 months of age. The key to housebreaking is consistency. Almost every time the puppy eats, drinks, sleeps or plays
he will need to go outside afterwards. If the puppy sniffs or starts to squat indoors, say "no" firmly and immediately carry him outdoors to the
proper spot and let him relieve himself. As soon as the puppy does go potty, praise him happily and make him feel good about doing the
right thing. Take him right back inside so he makes the connection that outside is the "right" place to relieve himself and that he was out
there for a purpose.   If the puppy makes a mistake, don’t spank, scream or rub his nose in it, just say "no" firmly and take him outside for a
short time. Clean the inside mess thoroughly to remove the scent. It is important to get on a schedule. You can avoid a lot of messes by
taking the puppy out often, then praising for a job well done. This is one area of puppy care and training you need to get right before your
puppy has a lot of freedom in your home!

When you leave the puppy home alone, confine him to a small area like a dog crate or a small pen. This should be just big enough to lie
down comfortably. Have a securely fastened water dish available if the weather is warm. Dogs do not like to soil their "den," so if he's not left
for too long and walked before you leave, you will hopefully come back to a clean crate. If you have to leave for more than a few hours take
the puppy (in its crate) with you so you can let him out every few hours, If it is not possible to take the puppy, try to find a reliable person to
let the puppy out while you're gone, or come home on your lunch break. If this is not an option you will need to confine him to a area large
enough for a bed on one end, food and water in the middle, and a potty pad on the other end. Upon returning, take him out first thing.

At night, let the pup sleep next to your bed in his crate so that you can hear him if he whines to go out early in the morning, or even in the
middle of the night. Remember, a new puppy is a big commitment!

BASIC TRAINING
We recommend basic training classes for your new puppy starting at or around the age of 5 months.   These classes will generally run about
4 wks. At the age of 5 months most breeds are nearing adult size. This is the greatest way in which you can establish the proper
relationship with your new puppy to base all future training and problem solving that may need to be implemented. This is also an excellent
way to make your new puppy feel wanted, and needed. Socialization is a side effect of joining a puppy training class.

When you bring your new puppy home begin to call him by name. By the age of 3 months he will be able to recognize and respond to his
own name.   You should put a buckle collar on your puppy upon his arrival to his new home so he can get used to something around his
neck. Don't give in when he whines, scratches the collar, or rolls around. Your puppy will soon forget all about it. After he is comfortable with
the collar, we suggest attaching a "Flexi-lead" and taking the puppy outside. A Flexi-lead is a retractable leash available at most kennel
supply shops, and it makes lead training very simple. It also comes in handy anytime when traveling or going for walks, etc. Let the puppy
lead you around sniffing and exploring, so he can get used to the pressure. The next step should be to add light pressure and walk away
from the puppy. Bend down, call his name, and offer treats and praise, and make a big deal out of him coming to you. Treats are always
helpful in boosting confidence in any stressful situation. Usually dried liver treats made for this purpose work well. The puppy can be taught
easily to come to your call by letting him be distracted in the house or fenced yard, then calling in a pleasant voice and running away a short
distance. It is a natural response for your puppy to chase. When he gets to you, bend down, hug him, praise happily, and make it fun to
come to you. Give treats. Never call a dog to punish him. Don't lose your temper with a puppy, as it does no good. Physical punishment is
not necessary, as most puppies are almost always eager too please - but they do not always understand what is expected of them.

To correct for misbehavior, (The term misbehavior here is refering to aggression, aggressive play, or destructive chewing.) I it is best to
shake him lightly by his collar (not too harshly) and speak in a disapproving tone of voice. Hold the collar for a moment longer before
releasing. Make sure that you have gotten his attention and DO NOT let up if he yelps unless you are hurting him in some way. (Mother
dogs correct their puppies in this manner, but when usuing this method it is best to have already established a days worth, or more, of loving
bonding time, depending on the puppies' temperament.) When this is all over, don't hold a grudge; be forgiving. Be gradual with your early
training, as your puppy will tire easily. Always end your session on a positive note; exploring together, massaging him and playing. Puppy
classes are beneficial for all breeds of dogs. One of the best ways to socialize and train your puppy is enrolling him in a Puppy Class,
usually held in conjunction with some obedience classes. In a puppy class, you and the puppy will learn how to begin training. Socialization
and other subjects will he covered, like housebreaking and specific problems. It's fun, and these things will bring you and your puppy closer
together, as well as making him a better member of society. The socialization with the other dogs is also very important.

One thing; if your puppy shows aggression of any type besides reasonable playing towards anyone or anything, it is important to immediately
nip it in the bud. Grab the pup by his scruff, turn it over on its back and stare into its eyes. Growl, scold and tell him how ashamed you are of
him. Don't give in until he gives up and looks away. Let him up but ignore him for a few minutes, then forgive. You need to always be able to
do anything you want to him, handle his food, clip his nails, hurt him for whatever reason. Repeat this as necessary. His mother also did this
to him when he went too far.

When leaving your dog home alone, confine him to a safe area; a crate, an exercise pen, or a covered chain link run with warm shelter and
bed. When he is reliable in the home, he should be allowed to be left loose in the house while you are gone. Never tie or chain your dog, as
this causes behavior problems eventually.

Let your new puppy have a large variety of chew toys. Puppies go through the teething stage until they are about 7 months of age, but
many dogs will continue to chew as an outlet for anxiety, restlessness or for the fun of it.   There are many new types of chew toys that are
made especially for dogs. I like the knuckle bones and lamb ears for older puppies, but pork hide bones are good for all ages. Your puppy
should have a toy box and most puppies can learn how to put the toys away. Also, it is good to teach your puppy the name of each type toy
so that he can begin to identify with your language code. This can make the new puppy feel more at ease about having his own "stuff" which
is very important to most dogs. It will also make it easier to teach that your things are not for him to play with, or chew on! Even if he thinks
that your things are all called NO, which will most likely be what he will hear when he grabs something like the pencil that your child left on the
coffee table, or the sock that that fell short of the dirty clothes hamper!

EXERCISE FOR PUPPY
Because of the fast growth rate and weight of the puppy, no structured exercise should be given. This is especially true for a very tiny
breed. Just normal puppy care, playing and socialization should be enough to tire him out. Never push him. Don't play too rough with the
pup, as this can cause permanent structural damage. Jumping down from things is very hard on his joints. Don't let him jump down from
couches, high steps, vehicles, etc. Always help him down, even as an adult. (I once sold a puppy to a nice young couple who came back to
me after a few months for another pup. There first one had jumped out of their parked vehicle as usual, but this time she landed wrong and
broke her back.)   We suggest giving your dog toys to play with, but don't throw them far or repeatedly. Also, leaping and twisting can be very
dangerous, as it stresses his joints, particularly his knees. Remember that your puppy will want to please you, and may keep going like an
energizer bunny until he drops from exhaustion. This causes stress in his system, and can bring on hypoglycemia even in a larger breed
puppy.

Don't keep your puppy on a bare, slick floor all the time, either, as this is not good for growing puppies. Chasing and sliding on slick floors is
asking for injuries. Always have a soft area for any puppy or adult, to lay on, as this cuts down on the amount of callusing, and may help
prevent "hygromas," which are harmless but unattractive fluid pouches that may form on the back of the elbows. After he is over 18 months,
he may begin some structured exercise if needed, but some forms are inadvisable. Most puppies do not need any formal exercise; just
nominal activity keeps them healthy.

SOCIALIZATION
It is extremely important to get your new puppy out as much as possible. Puppies can have a tendency to be unsure of things they've
never seen or experienced. After two or three days at home adjusting to his new family, you need to get your puppy out of its home to
visit new places - at least three days a week while he is growing up.

Puppy care studies have shown that the earlier the socialization starts, the better adjusted the puppy is. Shopping centers, schools,
obedience, puppy care or conformation classes, automatic car washes, other people's homes, other dogs, different kinds of animals,
children, fireworks, hats, men with beards, or
crowded parks are wonderful for this purpose. You don't want to frighten the puppy, but just gradually get closer and closer to the
commotion, while reassurring with lots of praise and treats. Never let the puppy off leash near traffic or any legitimately frightening
situation.

Having strangers feed the puppy your treat is always helpful in good puppy care. Socialization should always be fun and positive. Do
not reassure for shy behavior, correct for any aggressive behavior, and praise for positive behavior.

Puppy 101

Attention! Never leave a puppy or dog with a baby or child alone unsupervised!